My Cousin Rachel: Costume Mood Board

This is the mood board I shared with costume designer Ginger Kay Lewis-Reed for My Cousin Rachel. We’ve pinpointed the time period as no later than 1850 (from certain clues in the book), so we’re shooting for late 1840s.  While Ginger’s design will be dictated by her budget, time, and stock, these portraits and photograph help us narrow the field as far as character style is concerned.
RACHEL
Portrait of a Venetian, 1852, by Francesco Hayez (1791-1882)JOSEPH KARL STIELER
Italian widow late 1840s
1840s in fashion | Byron's muse1840's dress. Note the turned down wide collar and shawl. The fuller skirt is also present and the pointed bodice. Silk, taffeta or heavy satin.OMG that dress!
Green Changeant Silk Dress, 1840s - whitakerauction.smugmug.com #silkclothing
Early 1840s
Rachel’s color story, lightening up from mourning to springtime (perhaps a half-mourning). I like the parallel of jewel tones and metallics for her (with the jewels in the story), but it isn’t a requirement.  More 1840s – no cage. Petticoats or crinolines only. Simpler lines. No flounces. A simpler look and lines than Louise.

The exception: The moment Philip sees her in “undress”. I’d like the corset to be seen or hinted at under a robe or dressing gown. Very light colored. The temptation of the body is forthcoming and offered up by the corset, but surrounded in the “innocence” of white/cream and some ruffles.
c.1845 undergarments. The top is a boned chemise which would take the place of a separate chemise and corset.Underwear ensemble of 1857 #19century #XIX #victorian #1850s #crinolineera #corset #coutil #chemise #bloomers #pantalone #white #cotton…
Beautiful nightgown - imageEdwardian peignoir1910 Dressing Gown of White Batiste Cotton with Embroidery and and Rare Blush Pink Silk Chiffon Lining

LOUISE – “hoydenish” (boisterous and youthful)
How I picture princess Jonquil might style her hair from the book!Portrait of Pss Dagmar of Denmark, later Tsarina Maria Fyodorovna of Russia. Early 1860s.
Early Victorian fashion, riding habits, 1855Time Traveling in Costume: 1850s turquoise plaid dress- My “Young Victoria” gownФотография
1850s, EnglandEvening dress ca. 1853 From the Albany Institute of History & ArtEvening Dress, 1850s, MMA
She is to be in a riding habit at the top of the show. Louise can be in lighter colors, more youthful and “English Rose” ish. She can also be more up-to-date in English style – a hoop or extra petticoats closer to the 1850s bell shape. Also flounces are possible for her.

PHILIP
Portrait inspiration.
southcarolinamermaid:  A cutie from the 1850s proust:  Colorized daguerreotype of young Man with cigar and stovepipe hat, from Daguerrean Society, 1850s.
Victorian Darlings (@victoriandarlings) • Instagram photos and videos
Philip needs to have a simple attire as possible for a man of his rank and position. He’s not felt the need to adorn himself to be attractive to others. He’s still very naive so clean shaven may be best for him.

KENDALL
The Frock Overcoat - Emerged during Napoleonic wars.Worn as day wear full dress coat during 18502.Prince Albert popularized it.
Kendall dresses in a more complete and mature way than Philip. Perhaps with a bit more display of his wealth in the coats and waistcoats. Watch, pinkie ring, etc.

RAINALDI
A dapper #Victorian gent, sporting a finely groomed beard and mustache. #Photography
Of course with a more European flair and a slightly more relaxed style – Italian heat!  He’s very put together but wears it lightly.

SEECOMBE & JAMES
The staff should start off scruffier and less formal and grow into their more straightened up attire as they spend more time with Rachel.  They would straighten up right along with the set as the “woman’s influence” comes along.
Image result for 1880 old men clothing1850’s daguerreotype portrait // three shop workers wearing aprons
servants uniform - Google Search

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